Mold remediation in Knoxville, TN

Remediation means more than wiping a stain away. A real job finds out how far the growth goes, keeps spores from drifting into the rest of the house while work is underway, strips out the materials that can't be cleaned, cleans what can be kept, and makes sure the water that fed the mold is stopped. Skip that last step and you'll be paying for the same job again in a year or two. Here is how the work should go in a Knoxville-area home, based on EPA's remediation guidance.

1. Find the edges of the problem

What you can see is often a small piece of what's there. EPA lists common hiding places: the back side of drywall, the tops of ceiling tiles, the underside of carpet and pad, and the insulation lining inside ductwork. Wall coverings like vinyl wallpaper or wood paneling can trap moisture behind them and hide a colony entirely (EPA remediation guide, chapter 3). A good contractor uses a moisture meter, looks into cavities, and revises the plan if the growth turns out larger than it first appeared.

2. Contain the work area

Tearing out moldy drywall, pulling up carpet or running fans in a contaminated room all throw spores into the air. For anything beyond a small patch, expect the crew to seal the area off with plastic sheeting and keep the rest of the home protected. EPA's minimum protective gear for disturbing mold is an N-95 respirator, gloves and eye protection, and bigger jobs call for more.

Say what you found and where, and we will hand you to a mold remediation company that covers your end of the valley. (865) 417-9186

3. Remove what can't be saved

Hard surfaces such as metal, glass and sealed wood can usually be scrubbed with water and detergent and dried. Porous materials are a different story. EPA's guidance says moldy porous materials may have to be thrown out, and its water-damage table lists wet ceiling tiles and cellulose or fiberglass insulation as items to discard and replace (EPA, chapter 4). Debris should leave the containment area double-bagged in 6-mil plastic so it doesn't shed spores on the way out.

4. Clean, dry and HEPA-vacuum

After tear-out, remaining surfaces are cleaned and dried completely. EPA recommends HEPA vacuums for the final cleanup once materials are dry, including dust that settled outside the work zone. Biocides and bleach aren't required for most jobs; EPA says a sterile house isn't achievable or necessary, because leftover background spores won't grow once the moisture is gone (EPA).

5. Fix the moisture and rebuild

The cause might be a roof flashing leak, a sweating duct in the crawl space, a bathroom with no working exhaust fan, or a downspout dumping water against the foundation. Ask who is fixing it. Some remediation companies handle the repair and rebuild; others hand it off to a roofer, plumber or general contractor. Either way, the drywall and paint go back only after the cause is dealt with and everything reads dry.

Say what you found and where, and we will hand you to a mold remediation company that covers your end of the valley. (865) 417-9186

What to ask before you sign

• What exactly is being removed, and how will the rest of the house be protected?
• Which guideline does the crew follow? EPA suggests EPA's own remediation guide, ACGIH or IICRC standards (EPA).
• Who fixes the water source, and is that in this price?
• Is a post-cleanup check or clearance sample included, and who performs it?
• Does the price include putting walls, insulation and flooring back, or only tear-out?

Not sure what's behind the wall yet? Start with an inspection. Pricing questions are covered on the cost page.

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